by Laura Pensiero, Chef & Owner, Gigi Market & Gigi Trattoria

Fresh farm turkeys generally roast more quickly than the water-filled agribusiness turkeys. We proudly purchase and prep Tivoli’s Northwind Farm birds during the holiday season. Our customers can purchase them fresh, brined, or cooked to perfect juicy doneness – Gigi Market is open until noon on Thanksgiving Day for customers to pick up turkeys and all the trimmings.

A farm fresh turkey can be stored in a very cold environment – 28° to 34° F – up a week in advance. Have thermometers on hand for refrigeration and for testing the final doneness of the Thanksgiving centerpiece.

To cook your farm fresh turkey, first be sure your bird is completely thawed. A frozen turkey should be thawed in a refrigerator at a temperature of 40° F or lower; this can take a couple of days. Rinse the bird and the giblets under cold running water. Preheat the oven to 325° F (a hotter oven can dry out your turkey; a lower temperature risks prolonged time in the “danger zone,” or the temperature range in which bacteria multiply most quickly). Truss the legs together and tuck the wing tips back under the shoulders of the bird. If you plan to stuff the turkey, do so now, immediately before putting the turkey into the oven. Generously season the turkey and place breast-side up on a flat wire rack in a 2 ½ to 3-inch-deep roasting pan. Add ½ cup water to the bottom of the pan.

For turkeys up to 20 pounds, roast for 15 minutes a pound — an 18-pound bird should roast for about 4 ½ hours. Roast larger birds for 12 minutes a pound. A stuffed turkey may require an extra buffer of 30 minutes.

Take the temperature of both the bird and the stuffing. Oven temperatures vary, as do farm fresh turkeys, so begin checking for doneness about 30 minutes before the turkey is expected to be done. If your bird has reached the desired golden brown but is not yet done, a tent of foil may be placed over the turkey. This prevents over-browning and drying.

Testing for doneness

• Temperature: Deep in the breast should be 160 to 165° F. The thigh temperature should register at 180 to 185° F.

• Knife test: Insert a paring knife into the breast and thigh. When the juices run clear – not at all pink – the turkey is cooked.

• Leg separation: When the turkey is adequately cooked, the leg will easily separate from the bird with a light tug.

When the turkey is done, cool it at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes before carving. This makes for juicier meat and easier and more attractive carving. Farm-fresh turkeys may be lightly pink toward the bone – this is totally normal.

Refrigerate leftovers no more than 2 hours after removing the turkey from the oven. Wrapped tightly in aluminum foil or freezer grade plastic, the roasted meat can be frozen.

How many will your turkey feed?

6 pounds: 4 to 6 people
8 pounds: 6 to 8 people
12 pounds: 8 to10 people
15 pounds: 10 to 15 people
18 pounds: 12 to 15 people
22 pounds: 15+ people

Leftovers
For next day leftover sandwiches, smear 2 tablespoons of reduced-fat cream cheese (it’s easier if it’s softened) on one slice of toasted whole-grain or Pepperidge Farm white bread. Spread 2 tablespoons cranberry chutney, sauce, or relish on another toasted bread slice. Fill the sandwich with thinly sliced leftover turkey (about 2 ounces), a couple of slices of cheddar cheese (about 1 ounce), apple slices, and a handful of trimmed watercress or baby spinach.

by Laura Pensiero, Chef/Owner Gigi Trattoria & Gigi Market

Root vegetables sing of the season. This colorfully layered gratin can be made up to 2 days ahead of Thanksgiving, making it a quick “re-heat” side dish on a busy cooking day or any day. Steeping the ancho chiles in the broth lends a smoky deep layer to the flavor, making this a standout among the Thanksgiving spread. Prepare it again throughout the autumn and winter, serving it with roasted pork, lamb or chicken.

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

2 dried ancho or chipotle chiles

1 1⁄2 cups low-sodium broth (vegetable or chicken)

1 teaspoon olive oil

2 large baking potatoes (about 1 pound), peeled and sliced lengthwise into 1/8-inch-thick slices

2 medium sweet potatoes (about 14 ounces), peeled and sliced lengthwise into 1/8-inch-thick slices

2  medium parsnips (about 8 ounces), peeled and sliced lengthwise into 1/8-inch-thick slices

3  medium turnips (about 12 ounces), peeled and sliced into 1/8-inch-thick slices

salt

2 cups (about 8 ounces) shredded reduced-fat cheddar or Monterey jack cheese

INSTRUCTIONS

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

In a small saucepan, simmer the ancho chiles in the vegetable broth for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and let steep while preparing the gratin.

Rub a casserole or baking pan (about 12 cup) with the olive oil. Arrange the root vegetable slices, starting with a layer of slightly overlapping potatoes, followed by sweet potato, parsnip, .and turnips; repeat the sequence. Season each layer with salt and sprinkle with diced roasted pepper and shredded cheese; reserve about 1/3 cup of shredded cheese.

Remove the anchos from the broth and pour evenly over the casserole. Cover with foil wrap and bake for 1 hour, 15 minutes. Remove the foil, sprinkle with the remaining cheese, and bake for 15 more minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes before serving.

**Thinly sliced vegetables are critical to even and complete cooking. Use a mandoline to slice vegetables quickly and uniformly. Made of stainless steel or plastic, they are usually sold with a variety of blades for thin slicing, julienning, and french-fry cutting. Inexpensive, good-quality plastic mandolines are available at most culinary stores.

Used with permission Excerpted from “Hudson Valley Mediterranean” (pg 170), by Laura Pensiero, Chef/Owner, Gigi Trattoria in Rhinebeck and Gigi Market in Red Hook. Published by William Morrow, an Imprint of HarperCollins Publishers. Copyright © 2009 by Laura Pensiero.

by Jim Gibbons, photograph by Jen Kiaba

I am so grateful for the gloaming – defined as twilight, that glow of the day just after the sun has set and magic colors endure briefly as the night descends upon the land. I love the concept of the gloaming – the warm residue of a day well-lived; the embers of contentment from a day well-spent. The gloaming makes me happy.

Ironically, I only truly began to contemplate the full magic of “the gloaming” while watching the 1997 HBO movie “In the Gloaming” – a decidedly not happy movie about a young man dying from AIDS returning to his well-to-do parents’ home for the final months – the gloaming – of his life.  My wife hates thinking about that movie.  Not because it wasn’t well acted; to the contrary, it was acted too well. Glenn Close, the mother, reaffirming her bond with her homosexual son played by Robert Sean Leonard (Dead Poets Society) to the exclusion of a self-possessed father masterfully played by the Hudson Valley’s own David Strathairn. As the plot progresses the universally sweet perspective of a mother’s never-ending love for her child is projected wonderfully in Close’s performance.

That movie and Close’s performance hit a nerve with my wife. I watched her feeling every turn, every emotion. I saw her imagining herself as that mother and wife agonizing over the sadness of her husband’s detachment from her son whose lifestyle was  humiliating to her husband. Watching that movie, I saw projected in Heather’s eyes the unyielding and unconditional love of a mother for her son at any age; and finally the grief and hopelessness of the loss of a son to an equally unyielding and unconditional illness.

We were just married in 1997, and I was still measuring my life with Heather against our respective reactions to pop culture, movies, music and the like. We rented “In the Gloaming” because we liked Glenn Close and Robert Sean Leonard from past movies. We were four years from having our first child and moving from Connecticut to Strathairn’s Hudson Valley. For me, “In the Gloaming” was heart-wrenching and beautiful and provocative not only because of the compelling story that it told, but because of the wonderful glimpse it gave me into my future – a view of my wife feeling the feelings of a mother four years before the birth of our first child.  Heather has always been very in touch with her emotions. But “In the Gloaming” was the first time that I saw my wife’s emotional connectivity in the context of her capacity as a mother and the gloaming has been happily imprinted on my psyche ever since.

To this day, Heather groans whenever I mention that movie.  Her plaintive response became more pronounced with the birth of our son; even more anguished with the arrival of his sister a couple years later. My wife’s reaction to the mere mention of the word gloaming is predictable.

Equally predictable is my annual pronouncement at this time of year that Autumn is my favorite season, accented by my predictable proclamation that “we are in the gloaming of the year.”  Heather groans.  I chuckle. The kids don’t quite get it.  But the kids are well aware that I love this time of year.  And they say it’s their favorite time too – it is after all the threshold to the holiday season and the predictable pleasure of the traditions that we share each year together as a family.  This magic all began in the gloaming for me.  It persists in the gloaming every day, every year.

Soon we will have a predictable Thanksgiving meal with familiar people who warm our hearts. We’ll repeat some of the same jokes and songs and stories that we have shared for many years and revel in their newness all the same. We’ll proceed with our holiday season, doing so many of the things that we do every year, experiencing them anew; creating wonderful new memories against a familiar backdrop of the fading light of a year well-lived, whose colors are being seen again for the first time. I am so grateful for the gloaming.

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